The reasons for the transformation of the Yakut folk costume (XVIII-XXI centuries)

interest in Yakut folk costume among early researchers began in the XVII century with the beginning of the historical process of advancement of Russian pioneers – servants and industrial people sent to bring the population of the “Yakut land” under the authority of the tsar and with the beginning of organization of the first scientific expeditions of the early XVIII century, whose descriptions and reports contain fragmentary materials directly related to the topic we are studying. The names of people who collected the first collection of yasak from Yakuts in 1630-31 are known. They were Samson, Navatsky, Martin Vasiliev and Anton Dobrynsky [20, p. 31]. Undoubtedly, then travelers and researchers were attracted by the clothes of “exotic” peoples of Siberia, including Yakuts, first of all from the point of view of their biological function, as an object of protection from low weather conditions, but no less interesting for them were aesthetic (combination of different fur skins, interesting decorative design) and social functions of clothes (men's and women's, clothes of poor and rich people). In 1632 Yakutia became a part of the Russian state and as a result of their close economic and cultural ties, the traditional culture of the Yakut people gradually transformed, in particular, great changes took place in folk costume. The population, especially the Yakut intelligentsia and the wealthy class in the villages actively adopted the culture of urban dress, home furnishings and behavior of the Russians. As a result, in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century Yakut folk costume less preserved its originality, artistic traditions and image system of ancient costume, based on the religious worldview of the people completely disappears. The aim of the article: is to solve the question, which remained out of the researchers' field of vision: the reasons of change and transformation of the appearance of folk costume from the middle of the XVIII century to the present time. Methods: content analysis, methods of analysis and synthesis, comparison, generalization and deductive method of research.

costume, function of clothes, transformation, decrees, Christianization, Orthodox culture, fur, hide, fabrics