Calculation of the sea wave run-up on a sloping beach


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Abstract

The motion of long surface waves above a sloping bottom has been calculated within the shallow-water approximation. It is shown that, if the linear solution is known, the nonlinear corrections, up to the eighth order, can be expressed in terms of the derivatives of the functions determining the linear solution. An analytical solution for the free-surface elevation in the near-shore area is constructed.

About the authors

M. A. Shermeneva

Prokhorov General Physics Institute; National Research Nuclear University MEPhI (Moscow Engineering Physics Institute)

Author for correspondence.
Email: shermeneva@mail.ru
Russian Federation, ul. Vavilova 38, Moscow, 119991; Kashirskoe sh. 31, Moscow, 115409

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