Laboratory and modeling study on modulated wave properties

Аннотация

Development of Benjamin−Feir instability is investigated under laboratory conditions and by analytical modeling. Nonlinear properties of the wave train with discrete spectrum are also investigated. The mechanically generated waves are composed of several discrete waves, while the newly generated harmonics are still combined into discrete spectra with the same frequency step. The technique proposed in this study allows us to study accurately the nonlinear variations in main properties of each harmonic with fixed frequency, such as amplitude, phase speed, and wavenumber along the wave tank together with velocities of wave packet crests, especially for the large transient waves. The phase speeds of short waves increase near large transient waves, and the velocities of longer waves are close to the values determined by the linear theory of waves. The relative long wave accompanied by short waves can dramatically change the local kurtosis and skewness of the wave field. They may play an important role for the generation of large transient wave and provide an opportunity for triggering of the freak waves.